Saturday, April 01, 2006

Hong Kong



After the Old World beauty of Vietnam, Hong Kong comes as quite a shock. Like London, New York or Paris but with a million times as many Burberry, Louis Vuitton & Tiffany's & Co. outlets, a chav's heaven. Although a heaving and pulsating city it's deathly silent in comparison to the streets of Vietnam. Orderly lights help you cross the road and the futuristic public transport network is clean, (eating and drinking on the tube, buses or trams is banned), and delay-free. Though by far the biggest shock was the cost. We have been wealthy these past 3 months in S.E. Asia and we are now back to feeling like paupers sneaking about amongst the wealthy designer clad Hong Kongites, who are exceedingly well groomed at all times. Another mistake we made was accidentally arriving during the 'Rugby Sevens' THE biggest event hosted annualy by Hong Kong that attracts all the rugger buggers from far Western climes. The bars were packed, everyone talking rugger and everything had increased in price by 50%.
The room we had booked - the most expensive yet - was inside the rather incongrousy named 'Mirador Mansions'. The name is more than a little misleading. The 'Mansions' are in fact an emormous block housing what can only be described as a labyrinth the scale of which the ancient Greeks would be proud of. Shops, restaurants and way to many hostels to be healthy are confined within these bleak and crumbly walls. On arrival we were led to our twin room and marvelled at the size whilst the owner apologetically explained that the hot water was broken and would we like to stay there tonight anyway? The room was aproximately 5' x 7' but it was okay because it did include a 24" TV and a 'bathroom'. The bath was about 2' long with the sink situated over the toilet. We dumped our bags and found the recommended 'Lee Gardens Guesthouse'. Although much the same set up, the rooms were brighter and the building block slightly less oppresive with a fabulously friendly old Chinese owner called Charly Chan and, although a shared bathroom, we jumped at the chance to change rooms the following night.



Now that we could settle ourselves for the next few days, we started exploring Hong Kong. It looks exactly like it does on the tin. As most shops, bars and restaurants are hidden within the confines of towering blocks, the streets are jam packed with neon signs advertising the myriad treasures that lie within the interiors of the buldings. 'Lee Garden guesthouse', (for those who are interested), is on the 8th floor (8/F) whilst there may be a dim sum restaurant or a tea house on the 2/F and a foot massage parlour on the 3/F. Whilst most other city's shop depend largely on passing trade, you really need to know what you are looking for here. It is also the best place in Asia to stock up on essentials and Ben made sure he got lots of packets of 'Percy Pigs'from M&S to keep him going.
That first evening we found a bar in Kowloon and slowly drank our very expensive lager whilst watching the sun set and the lights come on over on Hong Kong Island.
The weather was slightly disappointing and very hazy, but we still managed a walk around the Peak, accessed by the funicular tram. We really fancied a sandwich and bought some bread, 'Dairylea' and 'Bernard Matthews Turkeyham' from a supermarket along with some pickled onion flavour 'Monster Munch' and 'Quavers' for an impromptu picnic.



From the top there are great views of Hong Kong Island's Central district as well as the harbour and out towards Kowloon. The days passed quickly and on our third night we made friends with a lovely bunch of American Graphic designers who all work for Nike here in Hong Kong. Several Hoegaardens, and tequilla shots later they parted with some staff 30% discount cards for us as well as lots of insider knowledge about the city, (Don't stay longer than 2 nights, was one very useful comment). To nurse our hangovers the following morning we had THE best English breakfast in the World let alone Asia at 'The Flying Pan'. Tammy the American owner is very prowd of Hong Kong and gave us loads of tips about how else we could spend our time in this crazy city.



Hong Kong was nice an' all that but it confused us a bit and made us look forward even more to ournext stop, Beijing.

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