From our luxury trip in Halong Bay, we headed back to the headaches and intensity of Hanoi. The air pressure is heavy and the streets are loud and massively over-crowded. Hassle follows you and pounces on you at every corner. The phrases "Motorbike?" or "Fake Rolex?" merge with the constant tooting of horns to become background noise after a while. We hid in an internet cafe supping coffe and blogging for most of the day but managed a couple of laps of the lake in an attempt to do some sight seeing. It's crazy, old people meet to chat or perform their exercises or Tai Chi and young lovers canoodle and hold hands whilst gazing out over the lake. In the midst of the chaos it really is an island of carm and humaity.
The old quarter was however, too much. The narrow streets are jammed with bikes, honking and blasting while women carrying yokes laden with fruit either hassle you to buy or failing that ask if you'd like a picture of them for a dollar. Beth panic-bought another dress late that evening just in case Vietnam really was the cheapest country on Earth and we headed off for our last dinner in Vietnam.
It was with a very heavy heart that we left Hanoi the following morning, Vietnam really is the most incredible place. The people are so wonderfully friendly and resourceful. It's a beautiful country with enough intrigue and a battered enough past to make it fascinating yet the Vietnamese harbour no grudges and are rushing, arms open, into a new World that seems to be embracing them. It's genuinely touched us and we've both learnt a lot from Vietnam and her people. I'd urge all to visit but then it'd just become another tourist haven like Thailand, so don't. In fact, ignore everything I've said for the last month.
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